This pinwheel lace bedspread is made for slow mornings in the garden. Every ivory square has a swirl of open lace blades, and sage green seams and a soft scalloped edge frame it. Joined together, the pinwheels flow across the bed like a light breeze.
The squares are easy to repeat once you learn the spiral. You only need basic stitches: chain, slip stitch, single crochet and double crochet. Make one practice square first, then keep going.
What you need
- Yarn: DK weight (light 3) cotton in 2 colors: ivory (squares) and sage green (square edge, joining and border).
- Hook: 3.5 mm (E-4). Go up or down a size if your square is too tight or too floppy.
- Tools: tapestry needle, scissors, stitch markers, blocking mats and pins.
- How much yarn? Estimate for a queen bedspread with two cushion fronts (148 squares): about 2,200 m (2,400 yd) ivory and 1,000 m (1,100 yd) sage green. For a better number, make one finished square, weigh it, multiply by the number of squares, then add 15% for joining and the border.
Abbreviations and size
- ch chain
- sl st slip stitch
- sc single crochet
- sc2tog 2 sc worked together
- hdc half double crochet
- dc double crochet
- dc2tog 2 dc worked together
- sp space
- st(s) stitch(es)
- magic ring adjustable starting loop
Square size: about 15 cm (6 in) across after blocking.
Squares needed: 130 for the bedspread (10 across and 13 down, about 150 x 195 cm) plus 18 for two cushion fronts, so 148 in total. Make 48 (6 x 8) for a lap throw.
How to crochet the pinwheel lace square
The pinwheel comes from moving the increase one stitch further around in every round, so the lace spirals out from the center. Work every round with the right side facing you. The chain-3 at the start of a round counts as 1 dc. Join each round with a sl st to the top of the first chain-3. Spiral rule: in each round, work the 2 dc in the first stitch after the 2-dc pair of the previous round. In the rounds with a ch 1, the ch-1 is worked in place of the 2nd stitch of that pair, and you work 1 dc in the ch-1 space in the next round. This makes the small eyelets in the blades.
Each round is made of 4 identical units. Work the unit 4 times.
- Round 1 (ivory): Make a magic ring. Ch 3, 11 dc in the ring. Join. [12 dc]
- Round 2: Unit: 2 dc in the next st, dc in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat 4 times. [16 dc]
- Round 3: Unit: dc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 dc in the next st, dc in the next st. Repeat 4 times. [20 dc]
- Round 4: Unit: dc in each of the next 3 sts, ch 1, skip 1 st, 2 dc in the next st. Repeat 4 times. [24 sts]
- Round 5: Unit: 2 dc in the next st, dc in each of the next 5 sts (work 1 dc in the ch-1 space). Repeat 4 times. [28 dc]
- Round 6: Unit: dc in the next st, ch 1, skip 1 st, 2 dc in the next st, dc in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat 4 times. [32 sts]
- Round 7: Unit: dc in each of the next 4 sts (work 1 dc in the ch-1 space), 2 dc in the next st, dc in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat 4 times. [36 dc]
- Round 8: Unit: dc in each of the next 5 sts, ch 1, skip 1 st, 2 dc in the next st, dc in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat 4 times. [40 sts]
- Round 9: Unit: dc in each of the next 8 sts (work 1 dc in the ch-1 space), 2 dc in the next st, dc in the last st. Repeat 4 times. [44 dc]
- Round 10: Unit: dc in each of the next 9 sts, ch 1, skip 1 st, 2 dc in the next st. Repeat 4 times. [48 sts]
- Round 11 (corners): Ch 3, dc in each of the next 10 sts (work 1 dc in the ch-1 space), *(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next st, dc in each of the next 11 sts. Repeat from * 2 more times, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the last st. Join. [60 dc, 4 corner spaces]
- Round 12: Sl st in the next 2 dc and into the corner space. Ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same space. *Dc in each of the next 15 dc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next corner space. Repeat from * 2 more times, dc in each of the last 15 dc. Join and fasten off. [76 dc]
- Round 13 (sage green): Join sage green in any corner space. Ch 1, 3 sc in the same space. *Sc in each of the next 19 dc, 3 sc in the next corner space. Repeat from * 2 more times, sc in each of the last 19 dc. Join, fasten off and weave in the ends. [88 sc, 22 per side]
Rule to remember: the number in the brackets at the end of each round is your check. If your count is different, find the mistake before you go on, or the spiral will not look right.
Block and lay out the squares
Pin each square flat to your blocking mat, steam it lightly and let it dry. Blocking opens the lace and makes every square the same size. Lay the squares in 13 rows of 10, with all the pinwheels turning the same way. Take a photo of your layout so you can always find your place again.
Join the squares
- Hold two squares with right sides together. With sage green, whipstitch along one side through the back loops only. The sage seams make a neat grid between the pinwheels.
- Join the squares into 13 long rows of 10 first, then join the rows to each other.
- Where four corners meet, make one small stitch through all four.
- Keep your joining stitches loose. Tight seams make the bedspread stiff.
Border
- Round 1 (sage green): Join sage green at any corner. Ch 1, sc evenly around, with 3 sc in each corner. Join.
- Round 2 (scallops): Ch 1, sc in the first st. *Skip 1 st, 5 dc in the next st, skip 1 st, sl st in the next st. Repeat from * around. If the last repeat does not fit, work 1 sc in each of the last stitches. Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Matching cushion covers (make 2)
- Make 9 squares for each cushion front and join them 3 x 3 with sage green. The panel is about 45 x 45 cm.
- Work Border Round 1 around the outer edge.
- Make the back from sage green cotton fabric. Place front and back wrong sides together, sew around three sides, insert a 45 x 45 cm (18 in) pillow form and close the last side.
Tips for success
- Check your gauge. Make one square before you start. It should be about 15 cm across after blocking.
- Move the increase every round. The spiral comes from this. Mark the increase stitch with a stitch marker.
- Count every round. One extra stitch changes the whole spiral.
- Use one dye lot of ivory and buy extra. White cotton shows dye differences.
- Work in small steps. Make 3 squares a day and all 148 squares are done in about 7 weeks. Joining and the border take 2 to 3 more weeks.
- Weave ends as you go. Doing 148 squares of ends at the end is a big job.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Forgetting to move the increase. The square will look like a flower instead of a pinwheel.
- Not working into the ch-1 space in the next round. Your stitch count will be off.
- Turning some squares the other way. All pinwheels should turn the same way.
- Skipping the blocking step. Unblocked lace looks lumpy and joins unevenly.
- Pulling the joining yarn too tight, which creates ridges.
Ways to change this pattern
- Blue version: ivory with soft blue joins and edge.
- Pink version: ivory with blush pink joins and edge.
- Alternate turn: turn every other square the opposite way for a mirrored pinwheel.
- Lap throw: join 48 squares in 8 rows of 6. It measures about 90 x 120 cm.
Frequently asked questions
What skill level do I need?
Intermediate. If you can make a magic ring and a double crochet, and you can follow a stitch count, you can do it. Make a practice square first to learn the spiral.
How long does it take?
Each square takes about 30 minutes. All 148 squares need about 74 hours, plus about 18 hours for joining and the border. At 10 hours a week, plan on 8 to 10 weeks.
What is the best yarn?
Soft mercerized cotton gives clean stitches and shows the spiral lace well. Choose a smooth yarn, not a fuzzy one.
How do I wash it?
Hand wash or use a gentle cycle in cool water, then dry flat. Cotton can shrink a little, so avoid hot water.
Can I make it smaller or bigger?
Yes. Use 48 squares for a lap throw and 130 for a queen bedspread. To size it for your bed, divide the bed measurements by 15 cm.
Can I sell things I make from this pattern?
Yes, you can sell finished items. Please credit this website as the designer and do not copy or share the written pattern.
